The ‘White Village’ of Capileira in the Alpujarra

Whilst in Andalusia we wanted to walk in the hills near the famed ‘White Villages’. Thanks to the helpful people at the Granada Tourist Information Centre we found out we could go from the main bus station up into the Alpujarra hills on the bus. Firstly we had to take a local Granada bus to the bus station. We bought our tickets to Capileira online through Alsa but found out you could purchase them on the bus. Being early meant we were able to secure seats near the front as the trip would definitely be on windy roads going up into the mountains. It took awhile to pass through the suburbs of Granada and then we began a steady climb. After about an hour we came to a large town, Órgiva before continuing up the mountains. From there it was a very slow, windy trip. At one point we passed this superb model of the village of Soportūjar. It was a shame perhaps that we weren’t going there. Eventually we came to the first of the Alpujarra ‘White Villages’, Pampaneira, followed by Bubión and finally Capileira, where we had booked a room at Hotel Real de Poqueira. We disembarked but a few passengers who must have been going on to the final town Trevélez remained on board. After orientating ourselves we made our way to our hotel and checked in. Our room was very spacious. The hotel had a pool and lovely gardens. As it was only mid afternoon we decided to take a walk back to Bubión. The streets of Pampaneira were somewhat steep but it didn’t take too long to reach the end of the paved path (you can see Bubión in the distance)and we found ourselves on a gravel path leading towards Bubión.

On our arrival in Bubión we wandered around. It seemed that it was an even smaller village than Pampaneira. We looked at the restaurant menus, just in case we came back for a meal. As time was moving on we began our return journey. Initially we were on the edge of the roadbut soon returned to the gravel path. From time to time we heard the sound of running water and could see small streams of water.

After about thirty minutes Pampaneira came into view.

The walk seemed to drag out a bit after that as it was all uphill but on our return to the hotel we were happy to have some afternoon tea at one of the cafes. I tried a local speciality. After that we headed back to the hotel to take a shower and rest before heading out to dinner. A couple of restaurants had been recommended in our Lonely Planet guide. The first was (unfortunately for us) holding a private function and the second was very crowded so we continued to look around. Eventually we decided to eat at Restaurant el Asador, which seemed to have a large contingent of locals in it. Put it this way, we two Aussies stood out! Karen ate a salad and I ate a local meat platter with potatoes and eggs. The restaurant was quite noisy but the food and atmosphere were good.

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